The descent into hell by John Galliano

Long the star ofdr dre headphone the fashion house Dior has shone in the firmament of fashion. His fall marks the epilogue to a crushing downfall, the end of an era too. On Friday, March 4, 2011 will mark a milestone in the history of black Dior. Like a deep gash in the leather shiny luxury warming. Tent erected in thenike air max 2011 gardens of the Rodin Museum, 800 guests came to attend the parade next winter. In the preamble, the CEO of Dior, Sidney Toledano speaks: "What we arrived today is a test. The fact that the name of Dior has been mixed, through its designer, so bright it is, to us is very intolerable about painful. [...] Painful, because everyone at Dior who gave heart and soul into his work is stunned and saddened by this unspeakable words. Painful, finally, because he is someone we've liked for its outstanding creativity. "That someone, it is not there. John Galliano, 50, has already been gone for several days in rehab at the Meadows clinic in Arizona. Far from the media who do not hesitate to give a voice to a video broadcast by the British newspaper Sun, showing nike dunkdrunken belching in the face of its neighboring coffee table Parisian Pearl: "I love Hitler! People like you are dead." Galliano a way to the abyss, who has been accused a few days earlier by a couple of clients in the same bar for launching anti-Semitic remarks against them. They have complained, the designer is now pursued by the Paris prosecutor for racial insults. And he expects his dismissal. Creative overprotected kept away from the realities of the world Over, the thunder, the smoke and lighting effects that made him appear sometimes in matador oiled torso, sometimes Napoleon or cosmonaut in the applause fromvibrams fivefingers an audience of celebrities, buyers and journalists. Returned, the pop star's style, decorated eight months earlier of the Legion of Honour by Nicolas Sarkozy in the salons of the Elysee. Creative head of Dior, whose clothes have become the uniform of the quasi-official first lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy fled through the boos. Lightning, falling from John Galliano's not just the epilogue to a dull decay; it also closes a chapter in the history of fashion, the creative superstars and pervasive. That his peers considered him one of the most innovative creative geniuses of the past twenty-five years and that the Financial Times presented in 2001 as "the most envied man in Paris" has fallen gradually, while no one dares or can not say anything. Intimates were aware, of course. Some tell of seeing him slumped on the sidewalk and quickly identified by his driver and others urinate on the dance floor of a nightclub in sight. So many pranks that showed greater isolation and a sick man and that we would never have shelled the list if they had lined slippages outrageous.Monster Diddy BeatsIn recent weeks, the addiction spiral had accelerated. John Galliano showed itself more in the shops of Avenue Montaigne Dior in either of those brand name, rue d'Avron, in the twentieth arrondissement of Paris. Side of the press, nothing had yet penetrated. Moreover, its communication service had proposed to our newspaper, just days before the storm, to accompany him at the end of April 2010 in Moscow, during a major retrospective at the Pushkin Museum Dior. When John Galliano has he really won? In 2007, according to his relatives. Shortly before 60 years of the brand Dior, at death - probably due to Eu Drug overdose - Steven Robinson, his right arm and closest friend since the age of 18, as he passed through the pews of the prestigious St Martins School in London. "Steven was managing all the logistics: he allowed John to focus on his character and his creation. He knew in what mood he anticipated would happen and how buffer with the teams, Vibram Five Fingers Classic Vibram Five Fingers KSO remembers a former colleague of Galliano. If there were bad things to say is that Steven instructed them to preserve John's wrong role. He spoke and acted in his name. "A kind of creative entity headed, in fact." He started me with Dior. We were like Siamese twins. He helped give life to this dream, "confessed the former star of Dior Le Figaro in June 2007 about his alter ego disappeared. Some of the ashes of Steven Robinson is also preserved ed in the studio in the rue d'Avron, reflecting the designer's visceral attachment to his friend. Dior: with or without him The years have been annals Galliano for Dior Couture. Between 1998 and 2010, the turnover of the subsidiary of Christian Dior has made a dramatic jump from 200 to 826 million euros. Last year, the sales curve has posted a solid increase of 15% after annus horribilis 2009 leaded by the crisis. Land of choice Siglée Dior creations: Europe and the Middle East (51% of products sold) and Asia (38%). Today, the parent seeks to minimize the influence of the whimsical creator of its performance, it charges less talented of it as the economy recovers world, the dynamism of emerging markets and opening new stores. Rightly so, according to Luca Solca, financial analyst from the American Society for Asset Management Sanford C. Bernstein. "As we saw when Tom Ford left Gucci, the brands are highly resistant to starting designers, "said the specialist. In interview, the designer of the flagship of the group LVMH has showed a great timidity and perfect courtesy to face his interlocutor, punctuating his speech English sentences in a neat French. This does not prevent him from appearing on his teams in darker clothes. "When I arrived at Galliano, I warned: 'Above all, do notNike Air Max Womens sale answer the phone if you stay alone with him in the premises after 23 o'clock, he can call you to insult you for no reason and without knowing necessarily Who it is "says one former employee. But it would play the white geese like to be surprised by the vagaries of the diva and multiple addictions, frequent an environment where creative overprotected are kept away from the realities of the world. A portion of light and shadow that Bernard Arnault himself, CEO of LVMH, has general rer to perfection for fifteen years, until February 24 when the famous case came to light. "Rarely does a designer have such support from his boss, he has missed lot. Its strength is that he understood that these people are artists that need to be let live sensitivity, otherwise it is not worth it, "said one close to Arnault. "I alongside a parallel world" Between the industrial North and the eccentric British, the unlikely collaboration had started at Dior at the end of 1996. She has borne fruit, since the figure business of the house has been multiplied by four in twelve years. We remember his squaws landed a magnificent steam train whistling Austerlitz station, its Maasai telescoping nineteenth Dior casseroles or sprinkled these Indians, on the podium, colored pigments, probably the finest collection in the name of the creator. "Many people think Monster FerrariI'm crazy, but behind this apparent eccentricity, there is a rigor that comes from my upbringing. To create a score of collections a year, I am obliged to have a structured life. I'm from 1:30 to 2:00 every morning, sports, and a nutritionist fits my diet function during periods of stress. I love racing in the morning on the banks of the Seine, I meet a parallel world I call the 'wet world ", John Galliano told us. It was 2004 ... Four years earlier he had been found on the side of the same "wet world" - the world of the marginalized - to create a haute couture collection inspired tinsel survival of the homeless, who had unleashed the comments. As had been denied its tribute to the difference, when he mounted a parade of dwarfs and obese alongside supermodels filiform, placing the viewer in an uncomfortable position of voyeur. John Galliano has embodied the shift in fashion in a global system and ultramédiatisé But the system built around oiled Galliano had a force of provocation, multiplying the impact of media shows, cleverly transformed in the wake of "Products" by Sidney Nike Air Max 2011Toledano and his teams. For the CEO of Dior Couture, he was the "reactor core", providing the energy of a global war machine. For John Galliano has embodied the shift in fashion in a global system and ultramédiatisé. In his appearances at the end of each show, personifying the theme of collection he had put himself at the center of the device, like a rock star returning to the arena. In recent years, however, the vein of provocation was blunt. The sartorius longer applied to decline academically codes Dior - the tailor Bar, illustrations by Rene Gruau, flowers - no great surprise. In his greetings, we attended its painful physical change with the seasons, with blows diets, excessive sports and Botox injections. But no one blinked, as the fashion press is locked by the weight of advertisers, especially when the first global luxury goods group, owns a range of brands bloated, which can invest in the newspapers. What will happen to the brand John Galliano? If the case has the force of a tornado in the world of fashion at Dior and in particular, the colossus should stand on his legs. French luxury flagship from revolution new-look of Christian Dior in 1947, the brand has seen within its walls - after the death of its founder in 1957 - a young Yves Saint Laurent, which was succeeded Marc Bohan and Gianfranco Ferre, before the arrival of John Galliano and his longevity record for the post of artistic director. Pending the appointment of a successor - the name of Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy's current designer, runs a lot - we must not forget that other designers within the officiating team Dior, which Kris Van Assche that draws man and Victoire dre dre headphonesde Castellane, jewelry. And the brand has continued in recent years to capitalize on its ambassadors in fashion and media beauty, Marion Cotillard to Charlize Theron. In turmoil, the brand has also continued to send news about celebrities dressed in Dior at the cerebral ceremonies of the Caesars and the Oscars. The future is much more to compromise the brand John Galliano, owned 91% of LVMH, who wished to present his collection Sunday, March 6 reduces to an audience of guests and bartering the decor of the brewery's Cupola cons a mansion of the sixteenth arrondissement. How would cost the Vibram Five Fingers Sprint departure of John Galliano Dior waited if the term of his contract, set at the end of 2011? The question remains unanswered. Anyway, the output of the former icon repositions the pieces on the chessboard of fashion sooner than expected.

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Par mrdear le lundi 07 mars 2011

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